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DE Arrival in Kathmandu
Iñaki arrived in Kathmandu, Nepal. This first day marks the start of the expedition toward Manaslu and Ama Dablam.
NEPAL · AUTUMN 2026
EXPEDITION JOURNAL
Manaslu 8,163 m · Ama Dablam 6,812 m
Two mountains. One range.
Updates from the mountain
September 16, 2026 · Katmandú, Nepal
September 17, 2026 · Katmandú, Nepal
The team is ready for the mountains
Iñaki met the full group in Kathmandu: an international rope team with members from Austria, Andorra, Poland, the United States, Ecuador, Italy, and Mexico. After the final gear check and last equipment purchases, everything was ready for the departure to Samagaun, the gateway to the Manaslu region. The next logistical challenge: keeping luggage within the helicopter’s 30 kg allowance.
September 17, 2026 · Manaslu, Nepal
The Manaslu season opens
The installation of fixed ropes on the mountain is now complete. These ropes, anchored along the route, provide safety and guidance for the ascent; their completion officially opens the autumn season on Manaslu, where nearly 900 people are expected. Although there is an initial good-weather window, Iñaki’s group is still leaving Kathmandu and will wait for a later opportunity, once properly acclimatized.
September 18, 2026 · Katmandú → Samagaon, Nepal
Bound for Samagaon
At 5:30 in the morning, the group left the hotel to take the helicopter to Samagaon, the gateway to the Manaslu region. From there, they will walk to the lodge, where they will spend the night. The plan calls for acclimatization rotations at Camps 1 and 2 through September 24. Should a storm arrive between the 25th and 28th, the team plans to descend to Samagaon for shelter and resume rotations on the 29th, with a summit attempt in sight for early October.
September 19, 2026 · Samagaon, Nepal
First acclimatization day
The group spent the day in Samagaon on an acclimatization hike. The goal now is to spend time at altitude progressively: the following day they will leave for Manaslu Base Camp, a 4-to-5-hour day with roughly 1,000 meters of elevation gain. From there, they will begin rotations between Base Camp, Camp 1, and Camp 2, ascending and descending so their bodies can adapt to lower oxygen availability before moving higher.
September 19, 2026 · Preparación previa
300 hours of hypoxic preparation
Before travelling to Nepal, the entire group completed a two-month program totaling 300 hours of hypoxia. Using a hypoxic chamber —a controlled environment that artificially reduces oxygen in the air to simulate altitude—they completed part of their preparation sleeping in high-altitude-equivalent conditions. This prior work aims to reduce the acclimatization time needed on the mountain and provide an additional safety margin during the expedition.
September 19, 2026 · Samagaon, Nepal
With Mingma Dorshi
Iñaki with Mingma Dorshi, the expedition’s lead local guide. His knowledge of the terrain, logistics, and mountain conditions is a key part of the team’s work in the coming weeks.
September 20, 2026 · Campo Base del Manaslu, Nepal
Arrival at Manaslu Base Camp
The group reached Manaslu Base Camp at 5,007 meters. The climb from Samagaon was demanding, with constant rain turning to sleet and then snow as they gained elevation. Iñaki reports feeling well acclimatized. From here, the altitude-rotation phase begins, preparing the team for the higher camps.
September 20, 2026 · Campo Base del Manaslu, Nepal
A snowy dawn and technical practice
Base Camp woke up completely covered in snow. The day is planned as an easy acclimatization walk to 5,300 meters, followed by practice with fixed ropes and the Jumar ascender. This phase allows the team to become familiar with the technical procedures they will use during rotations and the ascent.
September 20, 2026 · Campo Base del Manaslu, Nepal
Acclimatization to 5,495 m
From Base Camp at 5,000 meters, the group completed an acclimatization day up to 5,495 meters. The climb adds time at altitude progressively before the next rotations.
September 21, 2026 · Campo Base del Manaslu, Nepal
Puja: respect and protection before the ascent
Today the team performs the Puja, a traditional Himalayan Buddhist ritual held before a climbing expedition. The ceremony asks the mountain’s deities and spirits for permission and protection, as a sign of respect before moving higher. The group will remain at Base Camp to rest and acclimatize; through approximately September 24, it will continue with practice and rotations between Base Camp, Camp 1, and Camp 2.