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DEArrival in Kathmandu
Iñaki arrived in Kathmandu, Nepal. This first day marks the start of the expedition toward Manaslu and Ama Dablam.
NEPAL · AUTUMN 2026
EXPEDITION JOURNAL
Manaslu 8,163 m · Ama Dablam 6,812 m
Two mountains. One range.
Updates from the mountain
September 16, 2026 · Katmandú, Nepal
September 17, 2026 · Katmandú, Nepal
The team is ready for the mountains
Iñaki met the full group in Kathmandu: an international rope team with members from Austria, Andorra, Poland, the United States, Ecuador, Italy, and Mexico. After the final gear check and last equipment purchases, everything was ready for the departure to Samagaun, the gateway to the Manaslu region. The next logistical challenge: keeping luggage within the helicopter’s 30 kg allowance.
September 17, 2026 · Manaslu, Nepal
The Manaslu season opens
The installation of fixed ropes on the mountain is now complete. These ropes, anchored along the route, provide safety and guidance for the ascent; their completion officially opens the autumn season on Manaslu, where nearly 900 people are expected. Although there is an initial good-weather window, Iñaki’s group is still leaving Kathmandu and will wait for a later opportunity, once properly acclimatized.
September 18, 2026 · Katmandú → Samagaon, Nepal
Bound for Samagaon
At 5:30 in the morning, the group left the hotel to take the helicopter to Samagaon, the gateway to the Manaslu region. From there, they will walk to the lodge, where they will spend the night. The plan calls for acclimatization rotations at Camps 1 and 2 through September 24. Should a storm arrive between the 25th and 28th, the team plans to descend to Samagaon for shelter and resume rotations on the 29th, with a summit attempt in sight for early October.
September 19, 2026 · Samagaon, Nepal
First acclimatization day
The group spent the day in Samagaon on an acclimatization hike. The goal now is to spend time at altitude progressively: the following day they will leave for Manaslu Base Camp, a 4-to-5-hour day with roughly 1,000 meters of elevation gain. From there, they will begin rotations between Base Camp, Camp 1, and Camp 2, ascending and descending so their bodies can adapt to lower oxygen availability before moving higher.
September 19, 2026 · Preparación previa
300 hours of hypoxic preparation
Before travelling to Nepal, the entire group completed a two-month program totaling 300 hours of hypoxia. Using a hypoxic chamber —a controlled environment that artificially reduces oxygen in the air to simulate altitude—they completed part of their preparation sleeping in high-altitude-equivalent conditions. This prior work aims to reduce the acclimatization time needed on the mountain and provide an additional safety margin during the expedition.
September 19, 2026 · Samagaon, Nepal
With Mingma Dorshi
Iñaki with Mingma Dorshi, the expedition’s lead local guide. His knowledge of the terrain, logistics, and mountain conditions is a key part of the team’s work in the coming weeks.
September 20, 2026 · Campo Base del Manaslu, Nepal
Arrival at Manaslu Base Camp
The group reached Manaslu Base Camp at 5,007 meters. The climb from Samagaon was demanding, with constant rain turning to sleet and then snow as they gained elevation. Iñaki reports feeling well acclimatized. From here, the altitude-rotation phase begins, preparing the team for the higher camps.
September 20, 2026 · Campo Base del Manaslu, Nepal
A snowy dawn and technical practice
Base Camp woke up completely covered in snow. The day is planned as an easy acclimatization walk to 5,300 meters, followed by practice with fixed ropes and the Jumar ascender. This phase allows the team to become familiar with the technical procedures they will use during rotations and the ascent.
September 20, 2026 · Campo Base del Manaslu, Nepal
Acclimatization to 5,495 m
From Base Camp at 5,000 meters, the group completed an acclimatization day up to 5,495 meters. The climb adds time at altitude progressively before the next rotations.
September 21, 2026 · Campo Base del Manaslu, Nepal
Puja: respect and protection before the ascent
Today the team performs the Puja, a traditional Himalayan Buddhist ritual held before a climbing expedition. The ceremony asks the mountain’s deities and spirits for permission and protection, as a sign of respect before moving higher. The group will remain at Base Camp to rest and acclimatize; through approximately September 24, it will continue with practice and rotations between Base Camp, Camp 1, and Camp 2.
September 22, 2026 · Campamento 1 del Manaslu, Nepal
A night at Camp 1 · 5,851 m
Iñaki reached Manaslu Camp 1 at 5,851 meters after a four-hour climb and is feeling very good. The group will spend the night there. Because of heavy snow accumulation and avalanche risk at the higher camps, they will not continue to Camp 2. Tomorrow they will descend to Base Camp, and on Thursday they will fly to Kathmandu to wait for the storm to pass.
September 23, 2026 · Campamento 1 → Samagaon, Nepal
Descending to Samagaon ahead of the storm
After descending from Camp 1 in heavy snowfall, the group reached Base Camp, ate, and continued to Samagaon. The plan changed to secure a helicopter to Kathmandu early Thursday, before the storm could prevent it from reaching Base Camp. During the descent, they had a clear view of the summit. Samagaon, a village of 300 to 400 permanent residents, is also receiving many of the roughly 500 climbers seeking shelter from the storm. The group will spend two to three nights in Kathmandu before returning to Manaslu.
September 24, 2026 · Samagaon → Katmandú, Nepal
A flight through fog and storm
After descending yesterday from Camp 1 (5,800 m) to Samagaon (3,500 m), Iñaki and the group could not get seats on the helicopters carrying climbers, clients and Sherpas out ahead of the storm. They had booked the first flight today, at 7:00 a.m., but woke to rain and fog. Two helicopters that had left Kathmandu were held up by poor visibility in a nearby valley. The group eventually took off, only for their helicopter to land halfway along the route in the garden of a rural house while cargo was being flown up to Samagaon. Another helicopter picked them up and searched for a visible route between the gorges to Kathmandu. On arrival, they learned that the airspace had been closed because of the weather.
September 25, 2026 · Manaslu · Katmandú, Nepal
Waiting for the mountain to settle
The team reported more than a meter of snow at Manaslu Base Camp. The mountain remained unstable, making it unsafe to climb immediately after the storm. At that point, they still saw a possible summit window: the plan was to wait four to six days and return to Base Camp around September 29 or 30 to assess the snowpack, avalanche risk, forecast and route conditions. The guides and Sherpa team would continue monitoring the mountain before deciding whether to move higher.
September 27, 2026 · Katmandú, Nepal
Manaslu is cancelled; Ama Dablam remains the goal
After heavy rain, several landslides occurred near Samagaon overnight. The terrain remained highly unstable, and the exceptional amount of snow on Manaslu would need many more days to settle. The expedition leaders concluded that a safe, realistic summit attempt was no longer possible and cancelled this first stage. Iñaki confirmed that the second stage, Ama Dablam, remains planned. In Kathmandu, he is adjusting his itinerary and acclimatization goals before continuing.
September 28, 2026 · Katmandú → Khumbu, Nepal
The new plan: Khumbu, Lobuche and Ama Dablam
With the Manaslu stage over, Iñaki plans to trek through Khumbu to Everest Base Camp, climb Lobuche East (6,119 m), and then continue to Ama Dablam. The planned itinerary scheduled departure from Lukla for October 2, a visit to Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar on October 7, a Lobuche East summit attempt on October 9, and an Ama Dablam summit attempt on October 14. The group hoped several sunny days would stabilize the terrain after the rain and snow; every date in the document was provisional and depended on conditions.
View planned itinerary (PDF, new tab)October 02, 2026 · Lukla → Phakding, Nepal
Lukla to Phakding: the Khumbu trek begins
Iñaki arrived in Lukla and began the first trekking stage toward Phakding. The photos show the airport and sections of the trail among stupas, prayer wheels and mani stones; the video captures a suspension bridge crossing. This day marks the start of the planned Khumbu acclimatization route before Everest Base Camp, Lobuche East and Ama Dablam.
October 03, 2026 · Phakding → Namche Bazaar, Nepal
From Phakding to Namche Bazaar
From Phakding to Namche Bazaar, the group passed through the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park and continued past suspension bridges, a river valley and snow-covered mountains. Prayer wheels line part of the trail.
October 04, 2026 · Namche Bazaar → Tengboche, Nepal
From Namche toward Tengboche, with the peaks in view
The trek continues from Namche Bazaar toward Tengboche. Iñaki stands with two teammates in front of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam, visible from left to right. Another photo shows him in front of Ama Dablam, and the video follows him along the trail with that peak in the background. Along the route are pack yaks on a suspension bridge, prayer wheels and an ornate monastery gateway. This stage adds time at altitude in preparation for Lobuche East and Ama Dablam.
October 05, 2026 · Tengboche → Dingboche, Nepal
From Tengboche to Dingboche
On October 5, the trek continued from Tengboche toward Dingboche. Snowy mountains framed the monastery; farther along, the trail passed bridges with prayer flags, stupas and small stone monuments. Clouds covered some of the peaks as the team advanced through the valley. Iñaki continues to spend time at altitude for the next stage of acclimatization.
October 06, 2026 · Dingboche → Lobuche, Nepal
Toward Lobuche
On October 6, the route continues from Dingboche toward Lobuche. One video sweeps across the high valley, with a pale stream and steep snowy mountains; the other shows Iñaki and a teammate enjoying a lighthearted moment with trekking poles in front of Ama Dablam. The photos show Iñaki on the trail, Lobuche East (6,119 m) on the right of one view and Ama Dablam behind him in another. Snowy sections and stupas also appear. It is another day of acclimatization on the way toward Everest Base Camp and Lobuche East.
October 07, 2026 · Kala Patthar → Campo Base del Everest, Nepal
Kala Patthar and Everest Base Camp
On October 7, the team set out early for a planned 10 to 12 hours of trekking. They first reached Kala Patthar (5,667 m) and then continued toward Everest Base Camp. The photos show Iñaki on the summit of Kala Patthar, views of Pumori, Everest and Nuptse, and later beside the Everest Base Camp sign (5,364 m). The trek adds another day at altitude ahead of the planned Lobuche East objective.
October 08, 2026 · Campamento alto de Lobuche, Nepal
At Lobuche high camp
On October 8, Iñaki reached Lobuche high camp with the team. They will spend the night there and plan to set off toward the summit at 3:00 a.m. on October 9, Nepal time. The photo shows them together in the snow before the attempt. Departure and ascent remain subject to conditions.
October 09, 2026 · Lobuche East, valle del Khumbu, Nepal
Lobuche East summit reached!
On Friday, October 9, 2026, Iñaki reached the summit of Lobuche East (6,119 m) in Nepal’s Khumbu Valley. After spending the night at high camp, the team climbed snowy terrain before dawn. The photos and videos show the ascent by headlamp, Iñaki with his teammates high on the mountain, and peaks rising above the clouds. It is an important step in acclimatization ahead of the Ama Dablam objective.
October 11, 2026 · Ama Dablam, Nepal
Ama Dablam: ready for the summit attempt
Iñaki confirmed that the team is ready for Ama Dablam and waiting for the fixed ropes to be installed. The puja is complete. There is too much snow at Camp 2 (C2) to sleep there, so the provisional plan is to leave base camp (BC) at noon on October 12 or 13 for Camp 1 (C1), rest until 10 p.m. and set off for the summit, aiming to arrive at 7 a.m. the following day. Depending on their strength, they would return to C1 around 2 p.m. or base camp around 6 p.m., on a day expected to last 16 to 20 hours. Iñaki said he would confirm the departure date on October 12; this report does not yet confirm that the ascent has started. The videos show rope practice on rock and the puja.
October 12, 2026 · C1 · Ama Dablam, Nepal
Ama Dablam: arrival at Camp 1
Iñaki and the team have reached Camp 1 (C1) on Ama Dablam. They still have no guarantee that the fixed ropes beyond Camp 3 (C3) will be installed by the time they reach that section. With good conditions also expected on October 13, they will sleep at C1 and plan to continue the ascent on the night of October 13. Departure remains a plan; installation of the ropes on the upper section is still unconfirmed.
October 13, 2026 · C1 · Ama Dablam, Nepal
Ama Dablam: rest at C1 before the summit attempt
On October 13, Iñaki and the team rested all day at Camp 1 (C1) on Ama Dablam. They are now sleeping before the summit attempt, which is planned to start at approximately 9 a.m., Mexico time. The photos show the camp among snow and rock, and Iñaki with the mountain behind him. This report announces the departure plan; it does not yet confirm that the ascent has started or provide new confirmation about the fixed ropes beyond C3.
October 14, 2026 · Ama Dablam · 6.812 m, Nepal
Ama Dablam summit reached!
Iñaki confirmed reaching the summit of Ama Dablam (6,812 m) in Nepal with this message: “I am now on the summit of Ama Dablam, extremely tough but incredible.” After resting at Camp 1 (C1) before the attempt, he reached the objective of this stage of the expedition. The photo shows him with his teammates on snowy terrain, wearing helmets and harnesses, with ropes. This report confirms arrival at the summit; there is no update on the descent yet.